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Whenever compiling a ranking of London’s finest dining spots, one might foresee well-known high-end establishments. However, nestled prominently among these gastronomic heavyweights is a modest salonu found in a distant corner of north London.

A Surprise Accolade

This compact Turkish spot, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the fourth best restaurant in the metropolis by a respected food magazine. This accolade has left the owners completely shocked.

“I’m utterly shocked,” remarks a family member, referring to his parents’ relentless work that led to their modest restaurant achieving such a high spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Simplicity

The little venue, which used to be a basic cafe before its transformation into a popular destination, has retained much of its earlier feel. It seats just more than 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking performance, the setup remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate spot,” notes the owner.

The Signature Creation: Tantuni

However, it’s all about the fare, and this eatery certainly delivers. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a moist, juicy quality.

The meat is then thrown into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. As the meaty mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to take in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is rolled tightly inside.

The wrap is typically eaten with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a mighty slap of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The respected food critic described this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For sweets, the eatery’s künefe proves a treat. It is soaked in less syrup than is typical, imparting it a richer, more aromatic and not overly sweet taste.

Surpassing the Giants

Remarkably, this modest restaurant has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself near the summit of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant satisfied for under £25, similar tasting menus at luxury establishments can cost significantly more than that figure.

The Ethos of Heart

It is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well beyond the city’s central zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an expensive city. It is assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and best food but I don’t subscribe to that,” states the owner.

“I feel what is crucial is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The philosophy is shared by the list’s editor, who stated that if he was in a role of authority, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London visit this restaurant as a masterclass, to teach them the dangers of overthinking, and to show what is attainable if you do just one – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Journey of Perseverance

In contrast to most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food didn’t apprentice at elite restaurants. “I feel truly proud of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants require years to become successful, but this one first started seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum would be extremely tired. She would go shopping in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would do all of this. She is a single mum and she had a personal life but her friends would support her to support her. She had children and a house to look after as well. Each of these roles forged her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he says.

An Accomplishment for the People

This restaurant’s success is set to resonate outside its own doors. “I think numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the wider meaning of this gastronomic triumph.